Clinton St. Quarterly, Vol. 9 No. 2 | Summer 1987 (Portland) /// Issue 34 of 41 /// Master# 34 of 73

* f a "■ i . t l I I Beaverton 4000 S.W. 117th Corbett Fremont 5909 S.W. Corbett 3449 N.E. Fremont Northwest! Open 7 days 9-9 Open 7 days 9-8 Open 7 days 9-8 2 Clinton St. Quarterly—Summer, 1987 DINING OUT Cascades 333 N.W. 23rd Avenue, Portland, (503) 274-2305 On Portland’s power alley of dining, hard by cholesterol palaces where pastrami and cinnamon rolls still hold sway, there’s a monument to trimmer, more up-to-date dining. Cascades, originally conceived as an emporium of “spa cuisine!’ is one of the healthiest and tastiest nqw places in the city. The fare was inspired by that o f luxurious fat farms, where pampered guests dine on nutritious and gorgeously prepared food. Modified for tastes not exactly Spartan, it’s a far cry from yogurts, grains and other deprivations o f health-food enthusiasts. Cascades does much o f its cooking in non-stick pans requiring little oil. Salting is minimal; grilling, steaming and roasting are favored. Presentations are striking— splashes o f color that jostle each other for attention: ruby, jade, gold in an enameled setting. Under the category of “small plates” are such California refugee^ as fresh mozzarella with fire-roasted peppers, and briny clams steamed with peas and fresh mint. All dinREPRINTED BY PERMISSION OF PACIFIC ners come with soup or salad; the former is inevitably chockablock with integrity. Here’s a restaurant whose several vegetarian dishes have little relation to our conventional images of vegetarianism. Squash enchiladas with an avocado-and-red-onion salsa are heady with fresh coriander; the city doesn’t possess a better Mexican dish. A more ordinary entree is a succulent roast chicken with 40 garlic cloves. A lasagne stuffed with duck and wild mushrooms is a rich new treatment o f an old favorite The scallops in orange sauce and duck breast in blueberry sauce speak for themselves. A small, carefully selected dessert tray keeps the quality high throughout A poached pear in burgundy is most fitting, though for those who feel to restrained by such modesty, a chocolate hazelnut torte in an intense raspberry rsauce is just the thing. Decor is simple, even self-effacingly plain, a kind of Denny’s with a touch of class. The hedonism-cum-health is a signal of what’s ahead when fresh, local ingredients fuel the right-minded intentions of a virtuous kitchen. —Roger Porter in Portland NORTHWEST MAGAZINE - JUNE 1987 Cascades NORTHWEST REGIONAL CUISINE 333 N.W. 23rd Ave., Portland, OR 97210, 274-2305 BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER—DAILY M U S IC the whole world round Bo Diddley Boys of the Lough Bluegrass Cowpersons OboAddy Croup du Jour Kim Robertson women artists African pop Japan traditional John Prine Steve Einhorn Jean Redpath Holly Near Kate wolf Bob Dylan Tom Waits Bonnie Raitt woody Guthrie Los Lobos Bruce Cockburn (503)232-8845 3522 SE Hawthorne Muddy waters The Chieftans Howlin'wolf iaj Mahal Penguin Cafe Sukay G.s. Sachdev Salsa Gamelan Reggae Native American Eastern Europe Celtic and lots more!!! Guitars Conga drums Percussion Recorders Mandolins Fiddles Sitars Bodhrans Marimbas Hammer dulcimers Mon.-Sat. 10:30-6 VISA/Mastercard ARTICHOKE MUSICSI