:h Pile 1tovepipe I I in the breeze perched atop a home in S.W. Portland. Gary Morris seems to be of a similar persuasion. Heavily influenced by today's recycling sentiment and too many leaky houses, his art naturally found its way from the firch pile to the stove pipe. The one-time jeweler started in the heating business repairing old stoves on the Oregon coast. Since then he has moved to the Columbia Gorge with torch and "trash" in hand to create stoves, some of which not only heat an entire cabin but can cook meals and heat your bath water as well. Between the two of them they've used everything from farm equipment to old cannons in their practical sculptures. Each stove is fit to your heating needs and designed to your artistic tastes. For people who are more interested in efficiency than art, Keith and Gary are well experienced in design, construction and materials. In fact, Keith has discovered that one of the most efficient models is simple enough for the average do-ityourselfer to make without many fancy tools. Except for the refractory clay, they can be built completely recycled materials, Materials: 2-25 to 30 gal. drums (preferably old ones, because they're thicker and easier to weld to) 1 piece 16 ga. steel about 10"x24" 1 piece 1/4" steel plate, at least 19" diam. 2 heavy hinges (door or gate) 6" of 5/8" round steel stock 22" of 3/8" round steel stock 1-1/2" of 3/16" or l/4" gas welding rod 5 lengths 1/8" gas welding rod something for legs (use your imagination: I came across a bunch of curved 3" diam. pneumatic tubing and have been using it because it is strong and lightweight enough to October 1977 RAIN Page 13 E 2 Qi -, .s::. +,, 'Qi --------------,;,;,;,;;. .......... ____ ..;., _________________ .,,.,,.,~ While commercial manufacturers try to sway you with some consumer mumbo jumbo as to why theirs is "the only one to buy," these handsome heaters will add much more than a few extra degrees to your home. As Keith last remarked, "if you are what you eat, you are what you see too," and these wood stoves are something else; they'll warm you from the outside in weld easily to the barrel) (All of the above can be second-hand material, except for the weld rod.) 100 lb. box of plastic refractory (about $14). This is the key to the life and efficiency of the whole stove; I would not recommend building one of these without it. I have been using an A.P. Green product called "Super G" (look in the Yellow Pages under refractories). Plastic refers to the fact that it comes in a moist, malleable state. It is designed to be rammed in place and is good up to about 3000° (which you'll never reach in your woodstove unless mebbe you're burning ironwood). and the inside out. Keith and Gary can be reached at: Keith J ellum 911 N. 13th Ave. Tucson, AZ 85705 Gary Morris MPMP 0.32 R Thuja Narrow Washougal, WA 98671 - Cathy Macdonald Step 1: Cut the 16 ga. sheet into two pieces, 6"x24' and 4"x24". Form with hammer into cylinders 6" and 4" long and 6" diam. and weld. The 6" long one goes between the barrels and the 4" long one should be fitted to the inside of the large end of a 6" stove pipe before welding. Place the cylinders against the barrels and mark them to fit the contour of barrel and cut to that mark. Step 2: Be sure barrels are empty of whatever they contained, then fill them with water before cutting them with torch. This prevents them from exploding and killing you in case there are flammable fumes. (A childhood mentor of mine died that way.) Cut end out of continued next page
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