CLINTON ST. QUARTERLY The Great Bus Trip DOUG NOBLE Tie old Indian woman was well past seventy and her face heavily lined, but her hair, even the stubble on her chin, was still black. She wore a heavy black wool poncho over a green sweater and large black skirt, which emitted an occasional odor. A brown straw hat and green- tinted glasses complete my picture of her. She was carrying a huge package wrapped in heavy netting with which she filled the aisle of the bus. She then sat upon it. Like my friend David and I, she was unable to find another seat. The distance from Ayacucho to Cuzco in the Peruvian Andes is hardly more than 200 miles and is but a short plane flight three mornings a week. But we had agreed to take the 24-hour bus trip with the intention of “ seeing more.” Unfortunately, the Hidalgo bus line begins its run in Lima, not Ayacucho, and by the time it arrived all the seats were taken. I am sure we would have gamely eschewed the plane in any event, but other than waiting two days, we were denied even the choice. In an example of perversity always more discernible in other countries than your own, the only plane to Cuzco left at exactly the same time as the only bus to Cuzco, but from the opposite side of town. So though the bus was full when it arrived, it was too late to take the plane. Thus it was that we found ourselves embarking on a full-day bus trip standing in an aisle with a vertical clearance of no more than five feet ten inches. 1 was forced to curl my six-four frame uncomfortably, but even a much shorter David managed to bash his head on the roof every time we went over a bump on the unpaved, mountain road. We could not see out without bending over because the windows were well below our eye level. Nor could we move about because the aisle was as tightly packed as the seats . . . maybe 60 passengers in a bus designed to seat 36. The Indian woman was sitting next to us on her bundle. She took up a large area, all of which she jealously guarded by jabbing (with what appeared to be long wooden knitting needles), pushing and verbally admonishing in a clipped, raspy voice anyone who dared encroach. Needless to say, in a crowded, lurching bus, it was difficult to avoid crossing the imaginary line of her territory. In the adjoining seats was a young couple with a baby girl. The mother selfishly objected to anyone even THE NATIONALLY RATED TOP 5 CUSTOM PAINTER BY VANS BEARD & TRUCKS MAGAZINE QUALITY INSURANCE REPAIRS 238-5586 AT COMPETITIVE RATES We specialize in Fine Car Repairs custom paint graphics, pinstriping, murals & body work 'You're invited to one of them. Belinda's Dining from 6 p .m . Tuesday through Saturday Chef/Proprietor —Ross PuHen 8324 SE 17th O ld Sellwood 232-6606 10 min. from down town via Sellwood Bridge 17
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