DINING OUT Cascades 333 N.W. 23rd Avenue, Portland, (503) 274-2305 On Portland’s power alley of dining, hard by cholesterol palaces where pastrami and cinnamon rolls still hold sway, there’s a monument to trimmer, more up-to-date dining. Cascades, originally conceived as an emporium o f “spa cuisine!’ is one of the healthiest and tastiest new places in the city. The fare was inspired by that o f luxurious fat farms, where pampered guests dine on nutritious and gorgeously prepared food. Modified for tastes not exactly Spartan, it’s a far cry from yogurts, grains and other deprivations of health-food enthusiasts. Cascades does much of its cooking in non-stick pans requiring little oil. Salting is minimal; grilling, steaming and roasting are favored. Presentations are striking— splashes of color that jostle each other for attention: ruby, jade, gold in an enameled setting. Under the category o f “small plates” are such California refugees as fresh mozzarella with fire-roasted peppers, and briny clams steamed with peas and fresh mint. All dinREPRINTED BY PERMISSION OF ners come with soup or salad; the’ former is inevitably chockablock with integrity. Here’s a restaurant whose several vegetarian dishes have little relation to our conventional images of vegetarianism. Squash' enchiladas with an avocado-and-red-onion salsa are heady with fresh coriander; the city doesn’t possess a better Mexican dish. A more ordinary entree is a succulent roast chicken with 40 garlic cloves. A lasagne stuffed with duck and wild mushrooms is a rich new treatment of an old favorite The scallops in orange sauce and duck breast in blueberry sauce speak for themselves. A-small, carefully selected dessert tray keeps the quality high throughout. A poached pear in burgundy is most fitting, though for those who feel to restrained by such modesty, a chocolate hazelnut torte in an intense raspberry sauce is just the thing. Decor is simple, even self-effacingly plain, a kind of Denny’s with a touch of class. The hedonism-cum-health is a signal of what’s ahead when fresh, local ingredients fuel the right-minded intentions of a virtuous kitchen. — Roger Porter in Portland PACIFIC NORTHWEST MAGAZINE Cascades NORTHWEST REGIONAL CUISINE 333 N.W. 23rd Ave., Portland, OR 97210, 274-2305 BREAKFAST • LUNCH DINNER—DAILY HAPPYHARVEST & V ege tar ian Cafe 235-5358 SOME SYMPTOMS,; Hip Foods For Healthy People Clinton St. Quarterly—Fall/Winter 1988 29 Your N e igh b o rh ood Natural F ood s S to re OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK CORNER OF S.E. 24TH AND ANKENY (formerly K ing Harvest) IWi'MI By Carel Moiseiwitsch Reprinted with permission from Strip AIDS USA. @1988 Last Gasp & Carel Moiseiwitsch. Available for $9.95 from Last Gasp, 2180 Bryant St., San Francisco, CA 94110. Profits no to the Shanti Project. A N A f T A L l iN G EP lO thAH ' IS S PKE ADIN (> AROUND THE GLOGE' EVEKlDNE Is AT R is k1 RI AD AN AND DU((A/£R IFYAU HAVE .......... |t»— ....................... NOTE-THE AIPS VWS CAN ONLY /5 k TRANJMU LAL0OD OK SEMEN, NOT FT CASUAL S O C I A L TED IN CONTACT
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